theXtraSuitcase

 

 

 

 

Siem Reap/Angkor Wat, Cambodia

 February, 2015

 

Exactly one year ago today, Cousin Maria, Jane, Sue, and I took a "girls" trip to visit Siem Reap for Jane's 50th birthday.  It was also part of Sue and Maria's big Asian Adventure.  Although it was only three days, we packed in a lot and had a fabulous time.  It was my second visit to Siem Reap, but I was still in awe at how amazing and beautiful this area is.

 

 

 

 

 Getting up at 4 am to see the sunrise at the stunning Angkor Wat temple was worth it.  The great temples of Angkor Wat are situated in the province of Siem Reap Cambodia. These ancient temple ruins are considered the largest religious complex in the world.  Interestingly, this area was abandoned for nearly 1000 years, hidden by the jungle.  In 1890, a French explorer rediscovered the "lost city."

 

 

 

 

 

Angkor Wat was dedicated to Vishnu, a Hindu deity.  This was unusual for this time as most were dedicated to the reigning king.  In the late 13th century the temple transferred from Hindu to Buddhist use and is still used by Buddhists today.  Angkor Wat has also become a symbol of Cambodia, appearing on its national flag. 

 

 

 

 

There were many tourists at the temple, but it did not distract from the experience.  I actually favor this photo of all the tourists, each doing their own thing, while they anxiously await the sunrise. 

 

 

 

 

We were so lucky as the weather could not have been more perfect for the sunrise! 

 

 

 

As I mentioned in our other girls trip, the Maldives, it is fun traveling with girlfriends as we all LOVE posing for group shots!

 

When Angkor Wat was named a World Heritage site in 1992 it was also added to the List of World Heritage sites that were in danger.  People were pillaging and stealing the ancient artifacts.  In 1993, UNESCO launched a campaign along with the Cambodian authorities to restore and safeguard Angkor. 

 

 

 

UNESCO continues to be a part of Angkor’s future to ensure that tourism and development do not compromise this cultural treasure.  However, the structures are in jeopardy from the sheer amount of visitors who walk on the ruins each day.  There are rumors that authorities may shut down parts of the monument.  This would be so unfortunate for future visitors but I can understand why they would make this decision.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

That evening Jane managed to surprise us all for her birthday.... she had made a donation to buy a water pump for a needy village in all of our names.  We were able to go and visit the village, meet some of the children and people who live there, and see the water pump.  What an amazing gift for us... but can you image what this clean water will do for this poor community? Only 30% of rural people have access to safe drinking water, 19% to adequate sanitation and 50% to health services. About 4 million people, or almost 40% of the population, live below the poverty threshold.  Jane is a very thoughtful and a very giving person.

 

 

 

 

Elephants!

Of course riding an elephant was high on Maria and Sue's list of things to do in Asia.  It certainly made for a unique photograph with the temples in the background!  

 

 

 

 

 

Many people do not realize the vast amount of temples in the Angkor Wat complex.  In three days, you can only visit a small handful of them. 

 

 

 

 

 Ta pram

One temple not to be missed is Ta pram or the jungle temple made famous by Angelina Jolie and the Tomb Raider movie.  Construction on Ta Prohm began in 1186.  Unlike most of the temples of Angkor, it has been largely left to nature, hence the fantastic overgrown roots.  Ta Prohm is often described as the most magical place in all of Angkor.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

You feel like an explorer as you wander the temple grounds.  Not to mention, it is a playground for photography.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 Bayon Wat

Know as the temple of faces, Bayon Wat is one of my favorites.  From a distance, it looks like a pile of blurry stones.  But as you get closer, the magic appears...

 

 

 

Built by Jayavarman VII the temple has 54 towers and 216 faces.  No one knows exactly whom the faces represent. 

 

 

 

 

Each tower has four huge carved faces on each side.  The faces are 13 feet high (4 meters) and oriented toward the four points of the compass.  They all have closed eyes, which gives a very peaceful Zen feel.  It is another site that is fantastic for photographs.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 Banteay Srei

Banteay Srei is a 10th-century Cambodian temple dedicated to the Hindu God Shiva. The modern name of the temple means “Citadel of the Women.” 

 

 

 

Because it is 20 miles from the main group of temples, it is not as crowded.  It is also very different from the others as it is built with rose-pink sandstone.  The temple is elaborately decorated with floral motifs, female deities, and monkey guardians.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

So many picturesque Doorways...

 

 

 

 

 

 

Back at our hotel

 

We enjoyed a cooking class where we learned how to make traditional Cambodian dishes. 

 

 

 

photo by sue

 

Our last afternoon we relaxed at our hotel pool.

 

 

 

The local village

 

Flash back to April 2011, the first time D and I visited Cambodia.  We stayed at the same hotel and visited the village next door.  Below is a photo of D sharing photos with the children in his viewfinder. 

 

 

 

 

It was a very special experience for us. We even bought a water filtration system for one family in this village.  D had a great idea and printed out photos that we took on that trip, so that I could give them out when I visited with the girls.  Many of the staff at the hotel are from the village so all we had to do was show the photos to them and they were able to tell us whom the parents are. 

 

 

 

 

 

This was a grandmother of the little girl in the photo.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I was very excited, as were they.  One of those priceless moments!  Thanks Sue for taking these photos of my reunion!

 

 

 

When I walked away, I looked back and they were still laughing and enjoying the photos.  I just wish D were there to enjoy it.

 

 

 

 

We continued on to visit more of the peaceful little village.  The hotel is outside of the city so not only do you get to feel what the local life is like; there are hardly any tourists.

 

 

 

 

Below is a typical house in the village - no electricity, no running water, basically a palm leaf hut.

 

 

 

 

Cambodia has a population of 15 million people.  Cambodia is slightly larger than state of Missouri and lies between Thailand and Vietnam in mainland Southeast Asia, with the northern border adjoining Laos.  Decades of war and internal conflict have left it one of the world's poorest countries.

 

 

 

 

Most likely her blackened teeth are from chewing betel.  Betel chew is made up of several ingredients - betel leaf, slivers of areca palm nut, and lime paste.  It releases a mild stimulant. There is also a tradition to lacquered teeth, but I think this is from betel because it is on her lips. 

 

 

{above photo by sue - fantastic!}

 

 

A Buddhist cemetery

 

 

 

 

The predominant religion in Cambodia is Theravada Buddhism where death marks the transition from this life to the next.  The belief is that all life/being evolves in a successive cycle of birth, sickness, old age, death and rebirth/reincarnation.

 

 

 

 

In Theravada Buddhism it is traditional to cremate.  Cremation is usually carried out in the temple and the ashes placed in an urn, which is then placed in a stupa (also called a chedi).  Only one person is laid in each stupa.  The size of the stupa reflects the status of the deceased.

 

 

 

 

Prayer flags at the temple grounds.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Bringing the cows home at the end of the day...

 

 

 

 

I pulled the photo on the left from mine and D's visit in 2011 - it is the same man in the photo on the right I took on this trip.  Sporting that same dapper look with his hat and scarf.

 

 

 

 

A note about Cambodia's history: 

The Khmer Rouge is a very important part of its history.  There is so much to be told it would take me an entire blog…..what I will tell you is when the Khmer Rouge ruled between 1975 to 1979, it is estimated that 1.4 to 2.2 million Cambodians were killed.   Half of those deaths were from executions, and the rest were from starvation and disease.  Most of the people killed were the wealthy and educated.  This horrible part of history devastated Cambodia and they are still trying to recover and it is still one of the poorest countries in the world.

 

 

 

 

Always my favorite, the beautiful children...

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I'll end this post with a handful of random photos that really captured the essence and the fun we had on this trip!!

 

 

 

It's all about the photos!

 

 

{above photo by sue}

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Happy 50th birthday Jane!!!  Thank you for sharing your special day with us!!

 

 

 

Cousins!

 

 

 

 

Maria and Sue - catching the spirit of the temple.

 

 

 

Maria - supporting the local economy by purchasing handmade bracelets from a young girl.

 

 

{above photo by sue}

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

And if anyone can guess what Jane is doing... you win a prize!

 

 

 

 

Good Night Cambodia!

 

I love the colors in this photo... taken at the "golden hour (the golden hour also called the magic hour is just before sunset - or after sunrise when the sun's light is redder and softer than when the sun is higher in the sky).  I have taken only a handful of photos caught at this exact moment.  But when you are able to catch it, the light makes for a very special image.

 

 

 

 

It was a perfect sunset TO END A PERFECT TRIP.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Where in the world is Canberra?  And why did we pick this city? 

Canberra is 170 miles south-west of Sydney.  It is actually the capital of Australia and where their central government offices are located.  Canberra is Australia's largest inland city and the eighth-largest city overall.   D had business there. 

We flew into Sydney and took a train to Canberra for two days, then returned to Sydney and spent the weekend.  There was beautiful scenery along the way, much like the rural parts of the United States.

 

 

 

 

 

We really enjoyed our short visit to Canberra.  It seemed to be a very livable city.  And the very best part was their local residents.... kangaroos!!  I really wanted to see a kangaroo in the wild (on the bucket list) and the further north you go, the better chance you have.

Did we see them? 

 

 

 

YES!! Lots of them. 

Adorable!

 

 

 

But it would have been impossible to find them without an experienced kangaroo tracker!  D's Australian co-worker Nick was kind enough to take us out roo-hunting (cameras only)!

You are probably thinking ...kangaroos are big, why was it so difficult?  I'll let you try... look at the photo below and tell me if you see any kangaroos.

 

 

 

 

If you counted 9 you are correct!

 

 

 

 

Kangaroos are fascinating to watch.  They are the only large animals that hop as a primary means of movement.  They are social and live in groups called a mob, a herd, or a troop.  Kangaroos in a mob will groom each other and protect each other from danger.  If a kangaroo suspects there is danger in the area, it will stomp its foot on the ground to alert others.

 

 

 

 

On to Sydney...

 

 

 

 

 

 

The iconic Sydney Opera House, built in 1973, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

 

 

 

 

I found it interesting that the architect was Danish and not Australian. When I researched this I found that an international design competition was held to find an architect for the structure. The city received 233 entries, from 32 countries. The criteria specified a large hall seating 3,000 and a small hall for 1,200 people, each to be designed for cultural programs.

 

 

 

 

According to legend, the design was originally rejected, and at the last minute it was pulled out and declared the winner.  Today, this beautiful building is not only the “symbol” for Sydney, but the whole country.

 

 

 

Viewing the city from the Sydney Harbour Bridge.

 

 

 

 

Port Jackson, also called Sydney Harbour, is an inlet of the Tasman Sea (part of the South Pacific Ocean).  It was very busy with sailboats on the weekend.

 

 

 

 

We caught several Ferries and toured the waterways.  They provide you with a beautiful view of the Opera house and the city skyline.  We got off on the famous Manly Beach, had lunch, and walked along the beach.

 

 

 

 

Around town and our hotel

We lucked out on the hotel room we were given.  It was a suite with a large deck with a fantastic view of the city.  What was even more exciting was we used hotel points and stayed for free!

 

 

 

 

Dining at a waterfront table at the local restaurants was the "trendy" thing to do, but it was very difficult to get reservations.  We had such a fantastic view, we opted for dinner on our private deck and enjoyed  a carryout cheese and meat platter and a bottle of wine.

 

 

 

 

 

 

And the nighttime view did not disappoint!

 

 

 

 

Harry De Wheels, started out as a simple caravan cafe during the years of the depression (it is over 70 years old) and has developed into somewhat of a Sydney Icon.  They serve meat pies with mushy peas - delicious!

 

 

 

 

 

We also enjoyed a black widow hamburger with the famous charcoal bun.  Let's just say it was different.

 

 

 

 

A few interesting sights around town...

 

 

 

And this guy is a white ibis.  They are like pigeons in the US and are all over the city.  The locals loving call them trash vultures.

 

 

 

It happened to be Chinese New Year when we were there.  Sydney is said to have one of the largest Chinese New Year celebrations outside of Asia.  This year was the year of the sheep.

 

 

 

 

 

It was a really fun parade with local groups participating and the best part it was free!  In Singapore the parade is very pricey and almost impossible to get tickets for.

 

 

 

It was a fast but fun trip to Sydney.  Another area we think would be a great place to live.

 

Just a quick note...

We have several trip reports to share....

 

 

 

 

I am behind on posts as we just relocated back to the United States.  We squeezed in as much travel as we could before we left Asia, so there was no time to write my blog!   Check back soon as I have so much to share... If the link is red - it is now posted.  Just click to visit this county!

 

Trips to post:

 

Siam Reap, Cambodia

Canberra & Sydney, Australia

Sri Lanka

Bangkok, Thailand

Seoul and Jeju Island, Korea

Beijing China and the Great Wall (AWESOME!)

Tokyo, Japan

Bali !!

and a quick trip to Europe this week....

Brussels, Belgium

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Happy Birthday Singapore!

and

Farewell!

 

 

 

 

Singapore's Golden Jubilee

 

 

 

 

Happy National Day!

 

 

 

Today, August 9^th, marks Singapore’s 50th Birthday as a nation, and Singaporeans are celebrating BIG!!  The president declared August 7 a public holiday making it a four-day weekend. All over the city there are red and white decorations, carnivals, concerts, fireworks, special T-shirts, even a sardine can with a wish! 

I wanted to share a few of the photos I captured over the last few days of the celebrations....

 

 

 

 

We went to the practice sessions for the air show. 

The highlight was the formation of 20 planes in the shape of a "50".

 

 

 

A little history on Singapore...

 

On 9 August 1965, Singapore separated from Malaysia to become an independent and sovereign state.

 

 

 

 

In less than 50 years, this small country went from third-world to first, and has become one of the richest nations in the world.  Amazingly, 1 in 6 Singaporeans are millionaires and 90 percent own their own home.

 

 

 

Much of Singapore’s success can be attributed its first prime minister Lee Kuan Yew, who just passed away in March of this year.   So sad he did not live to see the 50^th celebration.

 

 

 

 

Mr Lee made a promise to Singaporeans, he said: "We are going to be a multi-racial nation in Singapore. We will set an example. This is not a Malay nation; this is not a Chinese nation; this is not an Indian nation. Everyone will have his place, equal: language, culture, religion."  Singapore truly is a multi-racial country.

 

 

 

 

I posted these facts about Singapore on the blog when we first moved here and thought it would be fun to share again – with a few comments (in red) after living here for almost four years.

 

 

 

 

1)  Singapore is a city and a country.  It is made up of one main island and 63 small islands (most are uninhabited).

 

 

 

 

2)  The country is 240 sq miles.  Slightly smaller than New York City, over five million people live here.  Apart from Monaco, it is the most densely populated country in the world.

 

 

 

 

3)  It is a very prosperous country with only 2% unemployment. 

 

 

 

 

4)  It is 85 miles north of the Equator - this means it is hot hot hot. 

I confirm.... it is HOT.  It took me over two years to adjust, but I did!

 

 

 

 

5)  It has a tropical rain forest climate with no distinct season.  It rains almost everyday.  The temperatures ranges from 83 to 90 degrees with the average humidity around 84% - which means hot hot hot. 

This is true, it does rain almost every day around 3:00.

 

 

 

 

6)  English is one of the four official languages along with Chinese, Malay, and Tamil.  English is also considered the first language. 

It is very easy to live in Singapore as most people do speak English.  The sign below is in Bahasa.  Majulah Singapura means "Onward Singapore" which was later adopted as their national anthem. 

 

 

 

The "little" red dot on the back of the bus was one of the themes for the 50th celebration.  The logo celebrates the Singaporean spirit – signifying that their dreams are not limited by the physical size of the "little" island nation.

 

 

 

 

7)  There is a 12-hour time difference between Singapore and the US.  They do not practice daylight savings so it is 13 hours in the winter.

 

 

 

 

8)  They drive on the right hand side (opposite of the US!).  All cars must be  less than 10 years old and are removed or destroyed when they reach 10 years. 

But even more interesting  -  you need to buy a coupon to drive a car in Singapore - they auction for around $70,000.  This does NOT include the price of the car or insurance.  The coupon also has a 10-year expiration.

 

 

 

 

Last night we went to see the Super-Tree 50th celebration light show at Gardens By The Bay.  It was so pretty.

 

 

 

 

9)  It is one of the cleanest cities in the world and you can be arrested for spitting, littering, or chewing gum!

 

 

 

 

10)  The crime rate is super low - making it one of the safest cities in the world. 

True.  I see woman leave their purses on the hawker stand tables to secure the table while they go to buy their food.  And the sign below is real... I am not sure if it was a child cheating on a test, a man cheating in checkers, or a man cheating on his wife... but cheating is a crime!

 

 

 

11)  Singapore is a foodie's dream.  It has been referred to as the food capital of the world with a mix of so many cultures and cuisines {yeah}. 

This is so true and part of what we have come to LOVE about Singapore.  We have a list a mile long of favorite foods we have come to love here but on the top are:

Roti prata - an Indian inspired round pancake, often eaten with mutton or fish curry. 

 

 

 

 

and XLBs (xou long bao) soup dumplings - little pillow of heaven.  You bite into it and the soup bursts into your mouth.

 

 

 

 

12)  It has one of the best health care systems in the world and the best water. 

The doctors are excellent here.  You can get an appointment fast with top-rated doctors and the doctors spend quality time with you.  They seem to really want to get to know you and help you.  We will miss this.

 

 

 

 

13)  It is one of the most expensive cities in the world in which to live.  Our basic 3-bedroom apartment sells for $2.5million USD.  Our friend's embassy-provided apartment sells for $6million USD.  

 

From a 2015 report - Singapore is the world's most expensive city, according to an index compiled by the Economist Intelligence Unit.  It comes in ahead of Paris, Oslo, Zurich and London.

 

 

 

 

 

14)  They say Christmas is spectacular - guess I will be able to confirm this!

Confirmed!  The decorations are more spectacular than in the US.  A bit unusual given most Singaporeans do not celebrate Christmas!  The photo below was from last night at Garden's By The Bay.

 

 

 

 

15)  Did I mention Singapore is hot hot hot   :  )  YES YES YES. 

But there is something to be said about having a wardrobe you can wear 365 days a year and NEVER having to stop and think... do I need to carry a coat today?!  

 

 

 

Farewell Singapore....

When we board that plane on Thursday to head back to the United States I will cry.  Thank you Singapore!  We have come to love this wonderful island that we have called home for the last four years.  We have a made so many wonderful friends - Singaporeans, expats from other countries, and some folks from our own backyard at the US embassy!  We will miss all of you and we hope that our paths will one day cross again. 

Until we meet again.....

 

 

 

 

 

Girls trip to the Maldives!!

 

 

 

 

This is a long intro...but stick with me!

 

 

 

What a special trip this was.  My friend Jane was celebrating her Big 50, AND her friend Sue and my cousin Maria were visiting from the US.  So we planned a few girls' trips around Asia. 

 

 

 

Wait until you hear what Jane and I did to surprise Maria and Sue.  We asked them where they wanted to go, and they picked Cambodia and Koh Samui (KS), Thailand, as they wanted to see a beach in Asia.  When Jane and I were planning the trip, we were having a hard time getting a good price on the tickets to KS and we found a great price to the Maldives.

So.... we purchased tickets to the Maldives, planed the entire trip, but did not tell Maria and Sue.  We wanted it to be a surprise.  I knew it was a dream trip for my cousin, but when she had asked early on about the Maldives, I told her it was just too expensive... which it normally is!

We wondered how far we could get them before we had to tell them where we were really going.  D took us to the airport, as he wanted to see their reaction.  Check in... D keeps them distracted while Jane shows all of our passports to the ladies at the desk.  We whisper to them it is a surprise.  They keep quiet. 

 

 

 

 

Next, passport control.  None of the guards say anything.  We go through the gate and they hand us landing cards, which do say THE MALDIVES.  I jump in front of everyone and say I'll take those.... I am the tour guide".   

 

Hey Sue and Maria - show us where you are going...

This photo makes me laugh, as they still have no idea!

 

 

 

And by now you are asking  - really... how could they NOT know?  It says Malé on the boarding pass, as this is the main city in the Maldives.  We tell them Malé is the airport in Koh Samui.  Neither have traveled in Asia - they have no idea.   We laugh and say we are going to "male" for Jane's big 50!  

Jane was not the only one with a surprise; we had a crown and beads for her to wear for her big celebration.

 

 

 

We actually get on the plane and they still had no idea!  The announcement comes on and they say enjoy your flight to Malé.  Perfect.

 

 

  

 

After the plane took off and we had our champagne in hand, we gave them this printed itinerary....

 

 

 

Were they surprised?

 

 

 

 

We were only there for three nights but was pure perfection.  We stayed at the AMAZING Banyan Tree - Vabbinafaru - where the hotel is on its own island (photo below).   In Maldivian, Vabbinfaru refers to a round island circled by a round coral reef.

I did not take the photo below (pulled from Google images) but I wanted to show how AMAZING this island is.  

 

 

 

 

These are my photos, along with some by the girls...

 

 

 

 

We also visited the sister property Angsana, where the snorkeling was drop dead gorgeous!  Yes, the water is actually this color in the shallow part. 

 

 

 

 

 

Cousin Maria and I shared a Villa and Jane and Sue shared one.  Each had an outdoor shower, pool, and jacuzzi.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The back of our room opened up onto this view of the beach.

 

 

 

For the record, this trip tied me with D for the number of countries we visited, 54!! 

I told you I was going to sneak off one day...

 

 

 

 

We woke up early each day and enjoyed the sunrise and coffee on the beach.

 

 

 

 

 

What is great about an all girls trip is you can pose for corny photos - which we did!    The pictures where I am in the photo, or all four of us, are taken by photographer extraordinaire, Sue Harris Photography.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

It was interesting how the blues of the sky and water changed at different times of the day.  We were told by the hotel staff that on a scale from 1 to 10, the day we were there would have been around a "3" for water color and clarity.  Only a "3"?  It was stunning... I cannot even image what a "10" day looked like!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Meet Moosa, the adorable guide we had for snorkeling and all marine life activities.  He started us off with a one-hour presentation on what Banyan Tree is doing to help sustain the Maldives, which are disappearing.  

 

 

 

 

The Maldives is the lowest lying country on Earth, at just 8 feet above sea level.  Within 100 years, the entire country will be under water.  

 

 

 

Snorkeling! 

 

Angsana is said to have one of the best house reefs in the world.  I believe them!  The sea life we saw was more of the level you see when you are scuba diving, not just snorkeling.  You can see from the photo below we were not in very deep water.  Moosa took these photos for us with his underwater camera.

 

 

 

 

Yet, what we saw was incredible - with a punch of color.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I have to share this image even though it is not the clearest one.  Jane had never been snorkeling and we were very proud that she gave it a go with us.  What a great thing to try on your 50th Birthday!

 

 

 

And look at Sue go - she was really going deep in the water!  I had to stay at the surface - but it was so clear you did not have to go very deep to see the splendor!

 

 

 

And I lost my breath (we all did!) when we saw this - A SHARK!!!   I was hanging on to sweet little Moosa for dear life.  I wished they had taken a photo of my face at this exact point.  What we saw are black tipped reef sharks and they are not dangerous.  We saw several of them, each time giving us a jolt of excitement!

 

 

 

 

The most spectacular scene was at the very end - and of course we ran out of memory space on the camera at that exact point!  Moosa went deep and swam directly into this school of fish.

 

 

 

I am not even sure how to describe this.  The fish started to swarm around him in a circle.  If he flipped his arms out they would break away in perfect formation and then come right back to the circle.  He would kick out his leg and they would do the same thing.  It was like nothing I have ever seen.

 

 

 

 

After an amazing day of snorkeling... it was hard to imagine that the evening could be better... it started off with another surprise by Jane and this time I was not in on it! 

A sunset cruise...

on a yacht....

 

 

 

with just the four of us...

 

 

 

with champagne and appetizers...

 

 

 

 

We had to recreate the scene from the Titanic.

 

 

 

 

Had the night ended there it would have been perfect.... but there was more!  Look out into the ocean...

 

 

 

 

Can you see that very small island (technically a sandbank)?? 

 

 

 

 

As we got closer..... 

 

 

 

 

We could see two adorable young men holding 4 glasses of champagne...

 

 

 

 

the moon, and a beautiful table set for four!

 

 

 
 

Really?  Dinner on a private island?  And we are the only guests!

OH MY GOSH!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Cheers cousin Maria!

 

 

 

 

 

As the sunset, it cast a delicate pink hue... like a dream.

 

 

 

 

Here's to Jane... Happy Birthday!

 

 

 

 

 

Our dinner was impressive given we were on a small island with no electricity.  Everything for the dinner, including the grill was carried on the yacht to the island.

We started off with a grilled shrimp salad, followed by lobster, chicken, baked potato, and corn.  Then we enjoyed a second main of grilled lamb and veggies and we finished with a fruit and cream brulee.

 

 

 

Where did they cook this amazing meal?? 

On a very small grill!  

 

 

 

 

 

The entire meal was catered and cooked by these five men.  They also took  great photos of us.

 

 

 

 

 It was an incredible evening! 

What a PERFECT 50th Birthday we had... I mean Jane had!

 

 

 

 

When we got back to our rooms, they had decorated for Jane's Birthday.  But there was a gift for each of us - a sarong with our names embroidered on them.  You will see us wearing them in a group photo towards the end of this post.

 

 

 

 

Other fun things we did during our holiday...

No photos - but we all had one-hour massages - ahhhh so relaxing!

The marine center (our guide Moosa) does a daily feedings of stingrays and sea turtles.  It is fascinating that wild stingrays know to come to a specific location on the beach everyday around 4:30 to be fed.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We took a demonstration cooking class to learn how to make Maldivian food.   We learned how to cook Mas Goulah (fish balls) with coconut Roti, Kulhi Boakibaa (tuna dish), and chicken curry.  They cook most dishes with coconut milk so I was in heaven.   SO YUMMY!

 

 

 

 

We went by speedboat to visit one of the local islands.  The Maldives is an Islamic republic, which lies off the Indian sub-continent. It is made up of a chain of nearly 1,200 islands, of which only 200 are inhabited and around 90 are developed as resorts. 

 

 

 

 

The islands are spread over 90,000 square kilometers (35,000 sq mi), making it one of the world's most dispersed countries.  We were on the North Male atoll area.

 

 

The population of all of the islands is only around 350,000.  Alcohol is prohibited in the Maldives, but resorts are allowed to serve it.

 

 

 

 

 

A very interesting fact about the Maldives...they have a 98-percent literacy rate among adults and 100 percent of children are enrolled in primary school, with a 99 percent graduation rate to grade five.  

 

 

 

 

 

Our last day - Jane's Birthday Breakfast

 

We finally got to surprises Jane by wrapping 50 presents for her to open on her special day!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Exactly how many cakes did you have Jane?

 

 

 

More group photos on Jane's b-day with our matching Sarongs (note our names at the bottom).

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Most of the staff came out to wish us well when we left.  I just hope that I can one day go back and visit this beautiful island!

 

 

 

This was a fantastic girls trip - one we will always remember!

 

 

 

Saigon & the Mekong Delta, Vietnam

Christmas & New Year 2014

 

 

 

 

This was a last minute trip.  We realized D had a week of vacation left along with the Christmas/New Year holidays, so we wanted to go somewhere.  Especially because this is our last Christmas in Asia! 

We pulled up fights to see what country was the cheapest, and Vietnam popped up.  The Mekong Delta was on our list of "places we wanted to visit" so we found a match.  What we were NOT expecting was that Vietnam would be so festive for a country that does not celebrate Christmas!

 

 

 

 

Ho Chi Minh City, formerly known as Saigon, is a large, busy city.  I actually enjoyed it more this time than last, maybe because it was extra festive during the holidays.   

 

 

 

 

We flew out on Christmas Day and spent the first night in Saigon.  That evening the streets were packed with families riding around the city on their motorcycles.  We were told this was the big thing to do on both Christmas Eve and Christmas Day. 

 

 

 

 

Many of the children were wearing Santa suits and hats - so adorable!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Christmas decorations paired with the communist hammer and sickle symbol...  an interesting contrast.

 

 

 

Look closely at this motorcycle - it has a little wicker seat attached to the front for a child as well as a stuffed animal shaped pillow for emergency padding, the motorcycle version of a car seat and "air" bags.  And we saw them both in use all over the city. Like we always say - safety first!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Bonus points if we capture a family of five on a bike!  We saw many this time.

 

 

 

 

 

How about a puppy?

 

 

 

 

The next day we hired a car to drive us to our hotel in Cai Be, situated in the Mekong Delta region.  Our hotel had individual huts that looked right out onto the Mekong River. 

 

 

 

 

The Mekong River is the world’s 10th-longest river and the 7th-longest in Asia.  It covers an area of approximately 15,000 square miles (40,000 square kilometers).

We loved sitting on our back porch watching the daily activity on the river.  These men came every morning to check their traps.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 They were so close I almost felt like we were peering into their homes.  Well, really we were.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We enjoyed a foot massage in the outdoor spa.  D finally learned to enjoy one!  He loves full body massages but hates having his feet done.  Not me - I will sit for hours if you massage my feet.

 

 

 

 

We had never seen open boats full of rice like the ones below.  This area is often referred to as the 'rice bowl' of Vietnam due its huge production of rice crop.

 

 

 

 

I am not sure I could squat like this on a regular floor without falling over, let alone off the back of a boat!

 

 

 

 

Bouquets and notes placed on our pillow each night.  How cleaver to write the note on the leaf.  We really enjoyed this hotel and found the area to be extremely relaxing.

 

 

 

 

Can Tho

 

We stayed at the lovely Boutique hotel Nam Bo in Can Tho.  It was our 26th wedding anniversary!  They left us a sweet treat and a heart of roses on the bed.  Awe...

 

 

 

 

 D in front of the Ho Chi Minh statue while wearing his Ho Chi Minh T-shirt.

 

 

 

 

The biggest and best floating market in the Mekong Delta is Phung Hiep. The market opens at 4.00 am and closes around 11.00 am, so you need arrive early.  It gets pretty packed with tourist, but still worth a visit.  

 

 

 

 

Farmers from the region bring their fruits and vegetables to the floating markets on the larger boats and sell them to local dealers (in the small boats). These dealers in turn sell the products at local markets, or to shops in the neighboring towns. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Vendors hang the product they sell from the top of a pole attached to their boat so the buyer can see from far away.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Our boat driver/guide bought a jackfruit - he must have gotten a good deal as he was very happy.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 D saving us from a collision!

 

 

 

 

 

Food and eating is a big part of the market.  There are small boats selling coffee and soup and other items to eat. They are for the locals, but some tourists come for breakfast.

 

 

 

 

 

 

We had a cup of coffee from this woman.  Her big smile was infectious! 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A few snapshots of everyday life on the water...

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Our guide was so much fun.  He spoke very little English, but we had a great time with him.  And he was quite talented in making things from the reed and flowers found along the water.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Our lovely hotel was only available for two nights so we decided to stay the last night in a home stay. Not a typical choice for us, but we decided to give this one a try.  It was very sweet, but one night was enough!   :  )

 

 

 

 

They were simple walls of grass tied together.  You had to be very quiet or you neighbor could hear everything.  The owners were a young couple.  She had just finished university and he was a policeman.

 

 

 

 

We had to sleep in a mosquito net.  And they were not to just make the room look pretty!

 

 

 

 

There was a relaxing area next to the huts with hammocks. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A jackfruit tree, where the fruit can get as big as 80 pounds each.  Jackfruit has a very strong smell (not as bad as the durian) but taste quite nice.  Described as a cross between an apple, pineapple, mango, and banana.

 

 

 

 

This is a good shot that shows a banana leaf.  Banana leaf salad is very popular in Vietnam.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The home stay also had small boats we could take out on our own.

 

 

 

 

Yes, I actually took a boat out and rowed on my own.  Not that I went very far  :   )    The scenery was beautiful.

 

 

 

 

 

We did a boat tour here too.   It gave us a very different perspective then the others we had taken.

 

 

 

 

It was very junglesque.  We even saw Tarzan!

We have no idea what he was doing. 

 

 

 

 

Our guide was one of the helpers at the home stay.  He only spoke one word of English, "hello".  When he wanted to get our attention to show us something he would say hello.  hello.  He was quite ornery and had us laughing a lot.

 

 

 

 

 

D loves to cross rickety old bridges.  I use the word "bridge" loosely.

 

 

 

 

 A mini bridge for me to cross.  Isn't the green moss on the water a beautiful color?

 

 

 

 

Local life on the river....

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We saw several people cleaning vegetables and fish (above) as well as bathing and brushing their teeth (below) with the river water.

 

 

 

 

 

And we visited a crocodile farm!  This place was bizarre.  It was not for tourists.  In fact, I thought it was very dangerous as no one was around to see if we were going to climb into the pen.  There were hundreds of crocodiles.  There were close to 15 large pens, each holding the same size and age from babies to huge adult crocodiles.  I read that this was a farm for skin and meat and their main market for selling the skin is China.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

As I mentioned, there were lots of fun activities at the home stay.  We even went bicycling with the chef/housekeeper.  The entire staff was really good, helping out wherever they are needed.

 

 

 

 

Of course we had to stop for a scoop of ice cream when I saw this vendor.  Forgetting that this probably was not the safest thing to eat!

 

 

 

 

Our guide had to run an errand so we tagged along. 

She spoke around 5 words of English.  Can you guess what she bought?

 

 

 

 

Below is the bag she walked away with. 

Here is a hint; they are warm and fuzzy...

 

 

 

 

Baby ducks! 

We asked if they were to eat by running our finger across our neck.....

they were not!

 

 

 

 

We stopped by a local temple and met the older woman who lives there and takes care of it.  From what we could gather she was around 88 and her husband is still alive, but was in town drinking. 

 

 

 

 

We shared our drinks with her and she gave us cookies.

 

 

 

 

She showed us the graves of her parents and grandparents.  Three generations having lived in the temple.

 

 

 

 

This was a sweet little scene - a neighborhood of children and adults playing bingo outside.

 

 

 

 

We toured a rice noodle factory.

 

 

 

 

We both tried our hand at making them.

 

 

 

 

I am going to share my moment with you... when I fell of my bike.  The tire caught on the edge of the sidewalk and I went down.  Fortunately no injuries, but it really scared our guide!

 

 

 

 

 

Another snack we tried... Banh Bong Lan - translates to sponge cake.  

 

 

 

Back to Saigon to celebrate New Year's Eve. 

 

 

 

 

Following the fall of Saigon in 1975, Saigon was "officially" renamed Ho Chi Minh City. However the old Saigon name is still used by both Vietnamese and tourists.  I like calling it Saigon as I think it sounds exotic!

 

 

 

 

 

A visit to the market.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A crazy old man (more likely a drunk old man) posing for me to take his photo.

 

 

 

 

Check out this guys pet...

 

 

 

 

Sweet children, always happy to pose for the camera.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The little guy is holding hands with one girl and is waving to the other.  Priceless!

 

 

 

 

And then he turns around waves to me!  Quite the little flirt.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Usually I get the bride, but this groom was just too cute.

 

 

 

 

We found these mangers very interesting.  It looked like a nativity cave for the little Christ figures.  We saw many of them on people's porches - some small, some large.  The catholic population in Vietnam is less than 7%. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Nap time!

 

 

 

 

I will end this long blog with New Year's Eve!  This is the view from our window around 11 PM.  The road was completely blocked with motorcycles and people.  Fortunately our hotel was in a fantastic location.

 

 

 

 

Me in the middle of the crowd.

 

 

 

 

And the fireworks! 

What a great way to end 2014 and to welcome 2015!

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Philippines

December 2014

 

 

 

We have been to the Philippines once, but really wanted to see more.  We picked this route because D had lived in Baguio when he was just 3 years old!  His father was in the Air Force and the family was stationed in this beautiful resort town for two years.

 

 

 

We arrived in Manila, the capital city with a population of over 12 million people.  It has the reputation of being a congested, polluted, concrete jungle.  And it was.  But you know how we love our big chaotic cities!

 

 

 

 

Look at this crazy road - no white safety lines, and traffic going every which-way.

 

 

 

 

Modes of transportation

 

Tuk-tuks vary from country to country, sometimes even within a country.   In the Philippines, some tuk-tuks are a sidecar and can carry several passengers if you count seating on the motorbike.  We went on a tour with two other people and a guide so there were six of us on one! 

 

 

 

Trust me - they are not that big!

 

 

 

 

The inside of the tuk tuks are decorated, so it is hard for the passenger to see out.  Just hold your breath and hope for the best!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We also saw many bicycles with the sidecar attached. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Um - not quite sure what this is, but as we always say... safety first!

 

 

 

 

Who needs a truck?

 

 

 

 

 

They do not have buses in the city; instead they used what is called a jeepney. They have become a symbol of the Philippine culture with their colorful kitsch decorations.  Many are painted with American themes like Top Gun or John Wayne westerns.  One told me that there is only one person in Baguio who paints the artistic ones.

 

 

 

 

 

Jeepneys were originally made from U.S. military jeeps left over from World War II.  They say the word comes from "jeep" and "knee", because the passengers sit very close to each other.  Which makes sense when you see D below.  He is helping the driver give back change to a passenger in the back.

 

 

 

 

Off to the market! The red eggs are called Itlog na Maalat or salted eggs.  Duck eggs are traditionally used for this delicacy, but you can also use chicken.  It is made by soaking the eggs in a brine solution for three weeks.

 

 

 

 

 A very interesting pancake making technique!

 

 

 

We went on a "slum tour" which was eye opening.  It was a small group; just one other couple and us.  We have walked though many slums in many countries, but we usually wander on our own.  I found it more heartbreaking when we had a guide telling us what was actually going on.

We were limited as to what sections we were allowed to take photos, so you are not seeing the worst parts. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Our guide actually lived in one of the slums we visited. 

The story that really hit me was that all the fast food stores dump their trash at the slum (organized) and people sort through it to get food.  If there are whole pieces they will re-fry them and resell them within the slum neighborhood.  But if there are bits and pieces, they will scramble them up or make hash, soups, stews etc.

They say over 2 million people live in the slums of Manila.

We visited a school and health clinic but were not allowed to take photos.  They were both actually quite nice given the condition of the village.

 

 

 

 

We did enjoy a sweet moment with the community and a karaoke machine.  We offered to pay if the young couple with us would sing.  They were good sports and everyone stopped to watch and have a laugh.

 

 

 

 

This man and his beautiful well-groomed horse seemed so out of place.  This was taken just on the edge of the slum.

 

 

 

Next stop Baguio

 

We took a six-hour bus to get to Baguio.  There are no flights.

 

 

 

 

 

The countryside was beautiful, dotted with rice patties.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Baguio City is known as the Summer Capitol of the Philippines

and the City of Pines. 

 

 

Americans established it as a hill station in 1900.  The city is situated at an altitude of approximately 5,050 feet (1,540 meters) in the Luzon pine forests.    

 

 

Because of the cooler weather, it was an R&R facility for American military personnel during the American occupation and Camp John Hay was created.  How did D’s dad manage to get stationed at a resort area?  All of the work he was doing at the time had to be done at high altitudes.  The area is stunning. 

 

 

 

 

D really did not remember much other than their helper Gloria and the gardener Shorty.  And that they used to slide down the big hills on cardboard boxes  :  )

We got lots of tips from his dad to help us try and find the home they lived in.  He said it was off the first tee of the golf course by the clubhouse.  Well, 50 years later the clubhouse was no more and the holes had changed.

 

 

 

 

Most of the military homes had been torn down and hotels were built in their place.  A few were turned into Starbucks and other restaurants.

 

 

 

 

But we think we DID find the house they lived in!  It was one of the few houses left.

 

 

 

 

 

The home below was the base commander's house.

 

 

 

 

We enjoyed hot chocolate and Bibingka, a type of rice cake with coconut traditionally eaten during the Christmas season.

 

 

 

 

Our Lady of the Atonement Cathedral, better known as Baguio Cathedral, is a Roman Catholic Church.  It was built in 1936.

 

 

 

 

The Easter Weaving room was established in 1909.  D's mom still has cloth placements and napkins that she bought 50 years ago - if that doesn't represent quality, I don't know what does.  They make all of the fabric and products on-site and you can tour the working studio.

 

 

 

We thought December would be a fun time to visit as the Philippines is one of the only Catholic countries in Asia.  81% of the Filipinos are Catholic so they celebrate Christmas in a big way.

 

 

 

 

Love this Santa - it so represents the laid back feel of Baguio.

 

 

 

 

Each afternoon our hotel made snow from the roof.  It was so much fun.  It was a tiny bit cool while we were there, but we are talking low 70's (21 c)!

 

 

 

 

 

 

How fun is this Santa and his elves?  D was hoping an elf would sit on his lap.

 

 

 

 

 

Christmas lights In front of our hotel.

 

 

 

 

 

We went to an outdoor winter wonderland.  Each year the Country Club creates a White Christmas celebration.  The 2104 theme was “Frozen” and was made from 80% recycled materials.  I am sure it is the only snow that most Filipinos will ever see!

 

 

 

 

A family asked if we would please be in their photo - they said it would make it more real. How funny.  We were the only westerners there.

 

 

 

 

Next stop - Vigan

 

Vigan is a charming little town, which feels much more like Europe than Asia.  The city is located in the northern part of the Philippines and has been a UNESCO World Heritage site since December. 1999.  Built in the 18th century, it is very well preserved.

 

 

 

It is one of the few Spanish towns left in the Philippines where the structures remain intact.  It has beautiful cobblestone streets, and a unique architecture that combines Asian designs with colonial European architecture.

They also had just been named one of the New 7 Wonders Cities.  Everyone was talking about this award, they were all very proud. 

 

 

 

 

Our hotel, Hotel Luna, was just as charming, with an old-world European feel.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Established in 1591, The Bantay Tower (meaning to guard) served as a watchtower for pirates back in the Spanish colonial era.  It is called the Bantay Belfry because it is located in the Bantay district of Vigan.

 

 

 

 

 

 

I thought this was for a wedding, but it is a funeral.  I think it is absolutely beautiful!

 

 

 

 

 

 

The cockfight

Our second sabong or cockfight in Asia.  This was in a local neighborhood where we were driving by, and had the driver stop.  They were very welcoming and quite excited we were there.  They pushed me up to the front so I could see and they let D sit at the betting table.

 

 A proud owner of one of the fighting birds.

 

 

 

 

All bets are in!

 

 

 

 

Although cockfighting is illegal and frowned upon in many countries, in the Philippines, this sport is legal.  Just before the fight starts, the owners of the cocks make the birds face each other, holding them in their arms and letting them give the opponent a few quick pecks.

 

 

 

 

Before the match, the birds are fitted with a curved heel blade known as the “Tare”. The fitting of the blade is an art unto itself.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I am not a supporter of cockfights but each county has their own traditions and rules.  And I respect this.

 

 

 

 

Time to go to the next destination....

 

 

 

 

 

I just love how D is the "tall" man in Asia!

 

 

 

 

 

Last stop - Lauang

 

The only reason we came here was to be close to the airport for our early morning flight.  But we really enjoyed it, with a UNESCO World Heritage site just 20 minutes away.

The Saint Augustine Church, commonly known as the Paoay Church, is a Roman Catholic Church.  In 1993, it became a UNESCO World Heritage Site under the collective group of Baroque Churches of the Philippines.

 

 

 

It was completed in 1710 and famous for the very large side buttresses built to withstand earthquakes.

 

 

 

 

The Augustinians built the Sinking Bell Tower in Loaog city center in 1612.  It is said to be one of the tallest bell towers in the Philippines.  They call it the “sinking” bell tower because it is too heavy for its sandy foundation and it is sinking.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

To get a great view in Singapore you have to pay a lot to go to the top of Marina Bay Sands (above).  But we know the secret view where you go on top of an HDB (public housing). 

 

 

 

Erin was very interested in all of the cargo ships.  Singapore is the world's second-busiest port in terms of total shipping tonnage and it is the world's busiest transshipment port (to transfer or be transferred from one vessel or vehicle to another).    

 

 

 

 

 

 

Erin was anxious to taste the popular sweets in Singapore...

 

 

 

 

... so we got her ice kachang, Singapore's “beloved dessert” with red beans, corn, durian, and a variety of other unusual items on shaved ice.  Or just a normal topping like fresh mangoes!

 

 

 

 

Another popular Singapore treat - ice cream sandwiches made with real bread.  They are sold on the street corner, usually by seniors. 

 

 

 

 

The ice cream comes in blocks and are sliced in front of you then served between  a slice of soft mufti-colored bread.  They come in interesting flavors like sweet corn, red bean, durian, yam, peppermint, chocolate, coffee, chocolate chip, and my favorite - mango.

 

 

 

 

Below is the Sultan Mosque, Singapore's largest mosque.  The mosque was built in 1824 for Sultan Hussian Shah, the first sultan of Singapore.  It is in the Kampong Glam neighborhood (fun funky area).

 

 

 

 

Always a favorite to show visitors, the interactive street murals by artist Ernest Zacharevic.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 Little India

 I love little India as it is one of the untouched old areas in Singapore.  You really feel like you are in India.  Erin was lucky as it was Diwali or Deepavali (festival of lights) while she was here.

 

 

 

 

Deepavali is one of the most important religious festivals for Hindus.  During this celebration, Little India bursts with bright colors and busy stalls selling food and specialty items.

 

 

 

 

They also decorate the streets with beautiful lights and have fireworks.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Several rituals are part of the festival: Families dress in traditional and richly-colored clothes and head to the temple for prayers. And many homes light small, oil-filled clay lamps and decorate their doors with fresh mango leaves  to welcome the goddess of power, wealth and knowledge Lakshmi.

 

 

 

 

Chinatown

 

 

 

Chinatown is another of my favorite places to visit in Singapore.  It is a bit more touristy then little India, but still fun.

 

 

The Buddha Tooth Relic Temple is a four-story Buddhist temple and museum.  It is fairly new, built in 2005. 

 

 

 

The temple is based on the Tang dynasty architectural style and built to house the tooth relic of the historical Buddha.

 

 

 

 

 

On the third floor there is a giant prayer wheel.  You take hold of the wheel and walk around. When you hear the bell ring... it means your prayer has been answered.

 

 

 

 

There are said to be 10,000 Buddha statues in the museum.

 

 

 

 

 

Erin took a little break to have a pedicure!

 

 

 

Singapore at night!

Singapore is such a beautiful city and it is particularly pretty at night.

 

 

 

 

The 13 minute Marina Bay Sands light show is free, and happens every night.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Erin's shirt matches the colorful reflection on the water in the photo below.

 

 

 

 

Since Erin is our artsy girl... we had to take her to a few of our favorite wacky places in Singapore - like Har Par Villa.  I am not sure how to even describe this place. 

 

 

 

 

The park, originally called Tiger Balm Gardens, was built in 1937 by the developers of Tiger Balm, as a venue for teaching traditional Chinese values.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

It has over 100 statues that tell moral stories on how people should behave.  I would NOT take a small child there as many are very bloody and gruesome.

 

 

 

 

 

But some are quite beautiful.

 

 

 

 

 

 

And Erin had read about an old cemetery called Buket Brown.  We were not familiar with it, but learned that at one time it housed 100,000 tombs, but has been abandoned since its closure in 1973. 

 

 

 

 

 

The oldest grave in Bukit Brown cemetery is from 1833.

 

 

 

Unfortunately a new road is being built on the property and some 5000 graves have had to be moved.

 

 

 

 

It is an interesting place to visit with a jungle feel.  If you go be sure to use bug spray!

 

 

 

 

We are so happy Erin was able to come and visit us and explore Singapore and Vietnam. 

We had an awesome time with her!

 

 

 

 

October 2014 - Sapa, Vietnam

 

Sapa is a charming mountain town, surrounded by picturesque mountains and rice terraces and the most colorful ethnic minority hill tribes.  Our niece, Erin visit from New York and we took her to Vietnam as her side trip.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Sapa is located in the Lao Cai province of Vietnam, close to the border of China.  The easiest and most popular way to get there is by overnight train from Hanoi (there are no flights). 

 

 

 

 

What an adventure it was!  There are four beds in each car and you have to pay for each individually.  We wanted the car to ourselves so we purchased all four beds.  It was cozy enough with family... I can't imagine it with a stranger.  It was a rough ride and very little sleep took place!

 

 

 

 

Day one:  A walk in the rice fields

 

The journey was worth it as the area is stunning.  The terraced rice fields are often ranked as some of the world's most beautiful.

 

 

 

 

Before the 1990s, the town's economy was mainly based on growing rice.   Now, they rely heavily on tourism.  Sapa’s entire population is less than 36,000 people but is visited by over 200,000 tourists.

 

Erin's first encounter with a water buffalo!

 

 

 

Most of the people who live in Sapa are of ethnic minority groups.   There are mainly 5 ethnic groups: Hmong, Dao, Tay, Giay and Xa Pho.  Most live in nearby villages around Sapa, coming to town mainly to shop or to sell their products.

Mee, our guide for the day, is from the Black Hmong tribe.  The Black Hmong are famous for their dark bluish-black indigo fabrics and embellished embroidery.

 

 

 

 

In the photo below, it shows Mee preparing thread for dying and weaving.  She did this non-stop as she walked and told us about the area.  Now that is multitasking!

 

 

 

Erin is tall US standards, but she is VERY tall by Asian standards.  Wait a minute..... I am tall by Asian standards - all 5'3" of me!

 

 

 

 

The three ladies on the right followed us the entire day.  They spoke very little English.  You can try to shoo them away, but they hang on.  It is unspoken that you just adopt them for the journey and buy small tokens from them at the end.  It is a gentle way of begging.

 

 

 

They created little presents for us along the way, which were quite creative and resourceful using natural supplies.

 

 

 

 

 

The indigo plant is native to the Sapa region and is still used today to dye the deep blue fabric of their costume.  Her hands are dyed from the green grass she used to create out little gifts.

 

 

 

 

The Children

 

Unfortunately, many of the children do not get formal education in Sapa, their families are too poor to send them to school.  They learn to speak English from the tourists.  Gotta love that crazy outfit he has on!

 

 

 

These boys look like little men going off to work for the day.  Such a determined look on their faces.

 

 

 

 

 

 

"Geez - he is trying to eat my food again"

 

 

 

 

Look closely at the photos below, where the little girls are swinging on the vines on the side of a hill...  the one has a baby strapped to her back.

 
 

 

 

 

Happy little girls!  

 

 

 

 

Always fun to share photos with the children.

 

 

 

 

This was an interesting event we came upon.  It was almost like a little educational camp.  They were playing with fire and knifes, but not an adult in sight.  Was it for tourist?  We did not think so as they never asked for money. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Below is a young girl sewing a traditional fabric pattern.  From a young age, Hmong girls are taught how to sew from their mothers and grandmothers.  The better a young woman can sew, the more attractive they are for marriage.

 

 

 

 

 

Erin and Mee are the same age. 

 

 

 

 

Day two:  The Bac Ha local market

 

Bac Ha Market is held every Sunday and is the biggest minority market in Northwest Vietnam.  It is a 2.5 hour drive from Sapa, but we felt worth the drive as the colors of the costumes were spectacular.

 

 

 

 

 

In Bac Ha, you will see the Flower Hmong minority group.  Alive with the bright colors and extravagant costumes, they come from all over to buy and sell a wide variety of goods, including livestock.  Although many tourists visit this market, it really is for the local people.  Especially the sale of the livestock.

 

 

 

 

Erin bargaining for a purse for her mom.

 

 

 

 

Women and children

 

Hmong households traditionally consist of large extended families, with the parents, children and grown children (son with their wives) all living under the same roof.  Households of twenty-plus family members are not uncommon.

Women are responsible for all household chores, cooking, child care, and farming tasks such as feeding and cleaning the animals.

 

 

 

 

 

I am in love with the colorful fabrics and outfits they wear.  They do not dress for tourists, this is their everyday attire.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Erin with her new friends.

 

 

 

 

A cock fight (not for the fainthearted)

This was the first real cock fight we have seen.  In many countries it is illegal, but I think it is only illegal to place a bet in Vietnam.  We did not see any money being passed at this fight.

 

 

 

 

 

They did not let them fight til death. 

 

Onto the horse sales....

The livestock sales and trade is the most authentic part of the market because a tourist obviously can't take one home.

 

 

 

 

Our guide for the market and the rest of the day was Zee.  She was very witty and funny.  What is the big red circle on her head?  It was for her headache.  They place the end of a burning buffalo horn on it to help it go away.  What was her headache from?  Drinking too much moonshine!

The bell Zee is holding is from a buffalo - Erin bought it.  A fun souvenir!

 

 

 

 

We missed the peak harvest season, but we still saw some beautiful golden colors from the rice fields.

 

 

 

 

 

One of the things on Erin's "to do" list was a boat ride, so we squeezed in a short ride along the Chay River.  

 

 

 

 

 

We also visited Trung Do village where the Tay people live. It was a very touristy town but still interesting as they were making moonshine.   

 

 

 

 

 

 

Oh yeah, and a little hooka (flavored tobacco) for Erin, shared with our guide and our driver!

 

 

 

 

Enjoying the specialties of Sapa...

 

 

 

 

Day three

The Motorcycle ride

 

 

 

Those of you who follow me know that my new found passion is touring random Asian countries via the back of a motorcycle.  I thought it would be a fun adventure for Erin!  And fun it was - we would rate it up there as one of our best!

The photo above is the sweet little B&B where we stayed.  Our guides met us there to begin our ride.  They assigned, the teeny tiny Hmong woman to me.  What?  That little thing is going to hold me up on a motorcycle???  She did an excellent job!

 

 

 

 

Erin looking very cool in her helmet.

 

 

 

 

The route was amazing.....

 

 

 

 

 

... with some of the most scenic areas in Northern Vietnam.  At one point we could see the border of China.  We contemplated hoping over to give Erin another country to add to here list, but it was not that simple.

 

 

 

 

An advantage of taking a motorcycle tour is they can get you to remote areas.   This means no other tourists!  We got to visit the home of a Lu family. 

 

 

 

 

It was a very sparse, simple home built on stilts.  The guides are trying to establish a relationship with this family to help them sell their handwoven pieces at the market.

 

 

 

 

 We enjoyed playing with the children.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Below, one of the young women showed us how they weave the intricate fabrics. 

 

 

 

 

We purchased the black and white one - made by the woman holding it up.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Of course I was drawn to the woman with the black teeth.  Blackened teeth are considered beautiful.   The old tradition is based on the belief that that only wild animals and demons have white teeth. The blackening of the teeth, was an assurance that one would not be mistaken for an evil spirit. 

What is the black made from?  Stick lac, a natural resin obtained from an insect.

 

 

 

 

Several of the younger girls had two gold teeth, also a sign of beauty and wealth.

 

 

 

 

 

Back to our ride...

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

This fishing net/contraption was fascinating - I have never seen one like it.

 

 

 

 

 

The back roads were busy with kids...

 

 

 

 

and water buffalo!

 

 

 

 

The road you see in the photo below is the route we took. 

Never say never... I never thought I would be traveling around the world on the back of a motorcycle.

 

 

 

 

Sapa, although touristy, is an amazing place to visit!  We are glad Erin was there to share this adventure with us.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Erin's Asian Adventure

Part two - Hanoi

 

 

 

 

When traveling with us, it's all about the food!  Our first stop with Erin was our favorite little hole in the wall.... REALLY!  Here is the kitchen:

 

 

 

 

Where the specialty is .... pigeon!

 

 

 

 

Erin gave it a try.  Tastes like chicken  :  )

 

 

 

 

 

 Chop sticks and little chairs - just like a local!

 

 

 

 

 

 

This guy stood up to get out of the photo for us.  We told him no, don't leave, just give us a big smile... and he did!

 

 

 

 

Another one of our favorites and a Hanoi specialty... Bun Cha. 

 

 

 

It is basically a noodle soup with pork.  You are served a bowl of broth with grilled pork along with rice noodles and fresh herbs.  Rice noodles and fresh herbs are common in Vietnamese foods.  The side dish with the carrots is the yummy vinegar, fish-sauce sauce to add for flavoring.

 

 

Another one of our favorites and also a Hanoi specialty, egg coffee.  Does it really have egg in it?  Yes.  A raw egg yolk is mixed with sweetened condensed milk, whisked into a froth, and added to the specially brewed coffee.

 

 

 

 

 A pile of chickens next to our table.  Welcome to Asian dining!

 

 

 

We hired Hanoi Kids who we highly recommend as tour guides.  It is an English speaking club for college students.  The tour is free, you just pay for any entrance fees and food/drinks for the students/guides.  It was a great tour and the two girls we had as guides were fun and spoke really good English.

 

 

 

They took us to the restaurant Xoi Yen, which would have been very difficult for us to navigate as nothing was in English.  The dish does not look appetizing - but we all loved it!  It is basically sticky rice (often called sweet rice or glutinous rice), topped with things like boiled chicken, pate, egg, sausage, pork, corn, fried shallots or seafood.

 

 

 

Oh and a new find... soft frozen yogurt chunks.  I wish I wrote down the name to share... sorry!

 

 

 

 

 

Another photo with our guides from Hanoi Kids.

 

 

 

 

 The Morning market

We are used to the markets in Asia but for Erin it was a new (and eye opening) experience.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We didn't only show Erin food!  We visited the Temple of Literature, Vietnam's first and oldest university.  The temple was built in 1070 and is  dedicated to Confucius, scholars, and sages (those having wisdom).

 

 

 

 

 

I have visited here many times as I find it to be a very peaceful place.  Every time I have been, there are students in their graduation gowns.  Kids from all over go to take photos at the temple - it is said that it will bring them good luck in their future studies.

 

 

 

 

little ducks

 

 

 

 

Always adorable!

 

 

 

 

 

It is a tradition and omen of good luck, to touch the head of all turtles at the temple.

 

 

 

 

 

 

We also did a little shopping.  Erin had an Ao Dai (traditional dress of Vietnam) custom made.

 

 

 

 

It turned out beautifully!

 

 

 

D was extra excited about having two women to shop with!

 

 

 

 

Erin needing more money to shop!

 

 

 

 

 

And I can't do a post on Hanoi without a few crazy motorcycle/traffic shots.  Check out her side pose, so relaxed.

 

 

 

 

 

 

This is a great - a designer cover up.  The Vietnamese women cover to protect themselves from the sun.

 

 

 

We ran into a a funeral procession.  A family will hire extra mourners to walk in the procession to indicate that the deceased was well thought of.  They hire a band and people carry banners with statements written about the deceased, for all to read.  

 

 

 

 

The city at night

 

It was interesting to see that they had Christmas decorations up and lit in October!  Like Singapore, they have extravagant lights for a country that does not celebrate Christmas.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Here's to Hanoi! 

We were happy to show Erin one of our favorite cities.